Friday, June 19, 2009

Songket Minangkabau













Photo 1 -------------------------Photo 2
Photo 1 : Songket Minangkabau, collected by Tenun Pandai Sikek

Photo 3.

Photo 2-3 : Songket Minangkabau, collected by Rumah Songket

Songket is a kind of Malayan traditional hand woven cloth originated from Indonesia and Malaysia. Songket is usually weaved by hand and using golden and silver yarn. It is a kind of formal custom in Melayu culture.
Songket adalah jenis kain tenunan tradisional Melayu yang berasal dari Indonesia dan Malaysia. Songket biasanya ditenun dengan tangan dengan benang emas dan perak dan pada umumnya dikenakan pada acara-acara resmi.

How to Order
Photo 1
Collected by Tenun Pandai Sikek (Yuniarti)
Address :
Pusat Penjualan dan Sanggar Tenun
Jl. Purus II No. 5C, West Sumatera. Telephone : +62-21-0751-33816
or
Komplek Griya Asri Camar, Jakarta. Telephone : +62-21-70218265
Photo 2 - 3
Collected by Rumah Songket
Address :
Plaza Bumi Daya Lt. 25
Jl. Imam Bonjol No. 61, Jakarta, 10310. Telephone : 08121026229 / 081514449179
Fax. 021-31901763

The history of songket has beginned a long time ago since the trade relation between China and India. Chinese has supplied the silk while Hindi had contributed the golden and silver yarn.
Asal-usul kain songket adalah dari perdagangan zaman dahulu di antara Tiongkok dan India. Orang Tionghoa menyediakan sutera sedangkan orang India menyumbang benang emas dan perak.


Songket has been weaved by Malayan framed weaving mill. Complicated patterns has been created by introducing the additional of golden and silver yarn .
Kain songket ditenun pada mesin tenun bingkai Melayu. Pola-pola rumit diciptakan dengan memperkenalkan benang-benang emas atau perak ekstra dengan penggunaan sehelai jarum leper.


Songket has to be processed through eight stages and weaved traditionally. As the craftsmen of songket came from village hence the pattern of songket usually inspired by local flora and fauna. Also the craftsmen named the songket based on name of local cake such as Seri Kaya, Wajik and Tepung Talam which were the favourite cake of royal family.
Songket harus melalui delapan peringkat sebelum menjadi sepotong kain dan masih ditenun secara tradisional. Karena penenun biasanya dari desa, tidak mengherankan bahwa motif-motifnya pun dipolakan dengan flora dan fauna lokal. Motif ini juga dinamai dengan kue lokal Melayu seperti seri kaya, wajik, dan tepung talam, yang diduga merupakan favorit raja.


Exclusive Songket required one to three months to be finished, while the ordinary one required apprx. 3 days to be finished.Initially the men used to wear Songket as destar, a kind of traditional hat. Afterward, the women used to wear it as Songket sarung, a kind of traditional skirt, with baju kurung, a kind of traditional tunic. Currently Songket has been a favourite gift for a bride as one of wedding present. Songket is not made only for the upper class only bust also for the lower class with the cheap price and ordinary style up to the exclusive one with high price.
Songket eksklusif memerlukan di antara satu dan tiga bulan untuk menyelesaikannya, sedangkan songket biasa hanya membutuhkan sekitar 3 hari.
Mulanya laki-laki menggunakan songket sebagai
destar atau ikat kepala. Kemudian barulah wanita Melayu mulai memakai songket sarung dengan baju kurung. Di masa kini songket adalah pilihan populer untuk pakaian perkawinan Melayu dan sering diberikan oleh pengantin laki-laki kepada pengantin wanita sebagai salah satu hadiah perkawinan.
Ditilik dari harganya, songket tidak dimaksudkan hanya untuk masyarakat berada saja karena harganya yang bervariasi dari yang biasa dan terbilang murah, hingga yang eksklusif dengan harga yang sangat tinggi


Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Tapis, hand-woven clothes from Lampung

Tapis is one of traditional handicraft from Lampung people as one of their way to live in harmony both with their environment as well as with the God who create us. Therefore the Tapis has passed many period of time to the improvement of their technique of manufacturing the material up to the finishing of the product by giving variety of accesories in line with the cultural development inside tis community.

Kind of Tapis based on the region
A variety of Tapis which are used by community of Lampung Pepadun and Lampung Sebatin are :
1. Tapis Lampung from Pesisir :
-Tapis Inuh
-Tapis Cucuk Andak
-Tapis Semaka
-Tapis Kuning
-Tapis Cukkil
-Tapis Jinggu



--------------------------------------------Foto 1. Tapis Inuh (100 years old)
--------------------------------------------collected by Djody Art Curio & Antique



2. Tapis lampung from Pubian Telu Suku :
-Tapis Jung Sarat
-Tapis Balak
-Tapis Linau Laut
-Tapis Raja Medal
-Tapis Pucuk Rebung
-Tapis Cucuk Handak
-Tapis Tuho
-Tapis Sasap
-Tapis Lawok Silung
-Tapis Lawok Handak
-Tapis Lampung dari Sungkai Way Kanan :
-Tapis Jung Sarat
-Tapis Balak
-Tapis Pucuk Rebung
-Tapis Halom/Gabo
-Tapis Kaca ---------------------------------------Foto 2 . Tapis Lampung


-Tapis Kuning
-Tapis Lawok Halom
-Tapis Tuha
-Tapis Raja Medal
-Tapis Lawok Silung
-Tapis Lampung dari Tulang Bawang Mego Pak:
-Tapis Dewosano
-Tapis Limar Sekebar
-Tapis Ratu Tulang Bawang
-Tapis Bintang Perak
-Tapis Limar Tunggal
-Tapis Sasab
-Tapis Kilap Turki
-Tapis Jung Sarat
-Tapis Kaco Mato di Lem
-Tapis Kibang
-Tapis Cukkil
- Tapis Cucuk Sutero ------------------------------------Foto 3. Tapis Lampung



3.Tapis Lampung dari Abung Siwo Mego :
-Tapis Rajo Tunggal
-Tapis Lawet Andak
-Tapis Lawet Silung
-Tapis Lawet Linau
-Tapis Jung Sarat
-Tapis Raja Medal
-Tapis Nyelem di Laut Timbul di Gunung
-Tapis Cucuk Andak
-Tapis Balak
-Tapis Pucuk Rebung
-Tapis Cucuk Semako
-Tapis Tuho
-Tapis Cucuk Agheng
-Tapis Gajah Mekhem
-Tapis Sasap
-Tapis Kuning
-Tapis Kaco
-Tapis Serdadu Baris



Kind of Tapis based on person who wear it
1. Tapis Jung Sarat
This Tapis is wore by the bride in wedding ceremony. It can be wore also by wives of elder family , bride or girls in group of dancer pengantin serta muli cangget in their traditional ceremony.



2. Tapis Raja Tunggal
It is wore by wives of their elder brothers in wedding ceremony or traditional ceremony.
Or in other area it can be wore by girls during the traditional ceremony.


3.Tapis Raja Medal
It is used to be wore by wife of elder brothers in the wedding and traditional ceremony. In other region it is used to be wore by the bride during traditional wedding ceremony.


4.Tapis Laut Andak
It is used to be wore by girl dancer or by wife of younger brothers or by daughter in law during traditional ceremony.


5.Tapis Balak
It is used to be wore by group of younger sister and daughter in law or girl dancer during traditional ceremony.


6.Tapis Silung
is used to be wore by parents of children during traditional ceremony and khitanan as well as the carnaval on the wedding ceremony.


7.Tapis Laut Linau
It is used to be wore by the family of wife and girls in the traditional and wedding ceremony.


8. Tapis Pucuk Rebung
It is used to be wore by women during traditional ceremony. In other area (Manggala) it used to be named Tapis Balak, which can be wore by women during traditional ceremony.


9.Tapis Cucuk Andak
It can be used by wife of ethnic head or royal family (Penyimbang) during wedding ceremony and traditional ceremony. In other area (Lampung Utara) it used to be wore by rhe bride during wedding ceremony while in Abung, ths kind of Tapis is wore by women during wedding ceremony.


10.Tapis Limar Sekebar
It is used to be wore br women and girls during traditional ceremony.


11.Tapis Cucuk Pinggir
It is used to be wore by women during traditional ceremony also th e girls during wedding ceremony.

12.Tapis Tuho
It is used to be wore by the wife of a man in royal family. Also it can be wore by elder people of royal family (Mepahao) during traditional ceremony.


13.Tapis Agheng/Areng
It is used to be wore by wife of royal family during traditional ceremony or by the bride before the wedding day.

14.Tapis Inuh
This kind of Tapis is used to be wore during traditional ceremony. This Tapis is originated from Krui (West Lampung)

15.Tapis Dewosano
In Menggala and Kotabumi, this Tapis is wore by the bride during traditional ceremony.


16.Tapis Kaca
It is used to be wore by women during traditional ceremony. or it can be wore by women in wedding ceremony. However in other area (Perdasuka) this kind of Tapis is wore by men during traditional ceremony.


17.Tapis Bintang
It is used to be wore by the bride during traditional ceremony.

18.Tapis Bidak Cukkil
It is used to be wore by men during traditional ceremony.

19.Tapis Bintang Perak
It is used to be wore during traditional ceremony and it is originated from Menggala, North Lampung.


Foto 4-6. Tapis Lampung . Collected by : DJody Art Curio & Antique.
Order of the above collection
For Order information contact directly to :
Djody Art Curio and Antique
Jl. Falatehan I/31 Blok M
Jakarta, Indonesia
Telp : 62-21-7260761 or Fax to : +62-21- 7207681


or modern style with Tapis made of silk please check at :Tapis Shanggie



Material and traditional woven mill of Tapis Lampung
Material of Tapis Lampung
Material of traditional tapis Lampung, which is a kind of hand woven cloth from Lampung, is cotton and golden thread. Cotton is used for a material for the background of wovencloth, while the golden thread is usded for the embroidery.


However as for today, there in Indonesia, are also available Tapis made of silk, which lighter and more simple for modern fashion. 

As we are talking about Tapis, we have too look at the history of it. In 1950, the craftsmen used the craft material always been treated by themselves especially for hand woven cloths . The treatment used the binding system, while the usage of golden thread has been applied since a long time ago.

Raw material of hand woven loths such as :
Cotton is used for the thread. Silk cocoon is used for silk yarn. Wax from beehive is used for stretching the yarn. Root of lemongrass is used for preservative agent. Betel leaf is used for anti discoloured agent. Areca nut, massive tree bark, other leaf is used for the dyeing agent of red colour. Salam tree bark, Rambutan tree bark is used for black colouring agent. Mahagoni tree bark or durian tree bark is used for chocolate colouring agent. Deduku fruit or talom leaf is used for blue colouring agent. Turmeric and lime is used for yellow colouring agent. However the application of such ingredients has been used oftenly as the alternative of them has been produced widely in the market.

Weaving mill of Tapis




The weaving process of Tapis by using :
1. Sesang is a tool for setting and arrange the thread before put them into the weaving mill
2. Mattakh is a weaving mill which is consist of :
- Terikan (tool for rolling the thread)
- Cacap (tool for setting the Mattakh)
- Belida (tool for tie up the thread)
- Kusuran (tool for setting and splitting the thread)
- Apik (tool for holding and rolling up the yarn)
- Guyun (tool for setting the yarn)
- Ijan atau Peneken (feet support)
- Sekeli (tool for holding the horizontal yarn)
- Terupong/Teropong (tool for putting the yarn into the weaving mill )
- Amben (tool for back supporting for the weaver)
- Tekang (tool for stretching the yarn while weaving the embroidery)